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Under the feline's watchful gaze, we sip G&Ts as the light fades.On another day, we rendezvous with other guests on a river bank with stunning views over to neighbouring Namibia.Once darkness has fallen, it's time to return to camp - with a bit of nocturnal wildlife-spotting on the way - to trade tales of sightings and close calls over a three-course dinner and glass or two of rich South African Pinot Noir.Before coming on the trip, I wondered if safari would really be for me.You return to camp at around 10.30am for a hot brunch/lunch, and then, just like the animals, you seek out some shade, perhaps near a cool watering hole - in all but one of our camps, our room had a private plunge pool - and have a siesta.

One evening, as a female leopard drapes herself over a nearby tree stump, our guide backs the 4X4 off a few feet and begins assembling our drinks.

The footprints were most likely left in an area that was just above the high tide line.“As this island would only have been accessible by watercraft 13,000 years ago,” Dr.

Mc Laren said, “it implies that the people who left the footprints were seafarers who used boats to get around, gather and hunt for food and live and explore the islands.”They found their first footprint in 2014.

This vast floodplain starts life as a tiny trickle in the highlands of Angola, travelling 1,000km to become the mighty Okavango River.

Viewed from the air, the deep verdant greens and glassy blues - inky in some spots, electric in others - form a vibrant patchwork I can't take my eyes off.

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